The only way I can describe the insatiable desire that draws me to the ocean is like feeding my monster. If you deprive me of surf, I am probably the least pleasant person you want to cross paths with. When I surf… I’m stoked! Selfishly its like a drug, a high that keeps me at that blissful level able to tackle anything! I call it my healthy addiction 🙂
I’m told I can be impossible to live with during the dry surf spells, moody as hell which is the reason I will wake at first light, put on a wet wetsuit in what feels like near sub degree temperature and blustering rains just to get my fix. Some find satisfaction in soul surfing and others in the competition arena and others too in riding giants… having dabbled in all can say it’s the same monster regardless of the form it takes.
A friend of mine aptly used the term frothing to describe his need for surf and explained it as “ a child with a chocolate ice cream but all they are allowed to do is watch it melt away”… devastation!
You can temporarily keep the monster at bay by pushing the endorphins in other areas but nothing quite cuts it as the feeling you get when the water first washes over you while you push under the first wave of the session. The ice cream headache is a love hate, you know what you are next in for , exhilaration, adrenalin, every wave different, how we ride it us up to us and in the end you are left stoked with just enough to keep you going until the next session!
So where will this monster be taking me in the coming days. With the torrential rain finally lifting the rest of the weekend is perking up. Light winds should offer 2-3ft surf on both coastlines. Muizies will be playful for a Longboard or SUP session but as the wind swings southerly the weekend is definitely dishing up offshore surf on the Atlantic in the 2-4ft range.
If you find your self heading up the east coast this weekend make sure to pull into J-bay and check out the JBU Supertrials, with a five star swell forecast for this afternoon and tomorrow the contest is on standby with a potential green light for this afternoon. These 16 competitors are fiercely fighting it out for a wildcard slot in the World Surfing League Championship tour’s J-Bay Open next month.
See you in the line up! Yeuwww…bring on the winter swell 🙂